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A Brief History of
Lundy Island
by
Patrick C. Labbe
LUNDY the only island of any size off the coast of Devon, lies 11 m. NNW. of Hartland Point, about 22 m.
NW. of Instow with which there is a regular service by motor-boat, and in the entrance to the Bristol Channel. It is about
3 m. long, averages about t m. wide, and covers some 920 acres. It is composed mostly of granite, with slates at the S. end,
and forms a tableland about 400 ft. above the sea. The highest point is at Beacon Hill (471 ft.), from which there are magnificent
views of the Welsh coast one way, and the Devon and Cornish coasts the other. The name Lundy is derived from the Old Norse
words lundi, "puffin," and ey, "island "; and puffins still nest on the island in large numbers. The island was well known
to the Scandinavian pirates who harried the shores of Wales and Devon, and is indeed first mentioned by name in the Orkney
ingasaga in 1139-48.
Lundy was occupied in prehistoric times, for flint flakes and pottery have come from the small barrows that dot the surface
of the island. Lundy has evidence of visitation or occupation from the Neolithic period onward, with mesolithic flint work,
bronze age burial mounds, inscribed Celtic gravestones, and an early medieval monastery dedicated to Saint Elen or Saint Helen.
Standing Stone to the north of Old Light is evidence that Lundy was home to a
group of early Celtic peoples, who subsisted by fishing and basic agriculture. This is all that remains of one of their sacred
sites
Evidence that the Knights Templar were given the island of Lundy is sparse but
clearly documented. Exactly when the Templars were first given the island is uncertain but it would seem that as they were
a major maritime force in the reign of Henry II (1154-1189), he gave them Lundy as an English port of refuge. Whether they
actually took possession of the island then is questionable, though the Order did have economic interests in north Devon and
may well have been given the island as an alternative to the Taw river landings leading to Barnstable. It has been speculated
that one of the reasons for the king's generosity was that the Norseman were attackin Scotland and harassing the coastline
and may have posed a threat to more southern waters.
It is known that William de Marisco was fined circa 1195 for retaining the island
of Lundy against the wishes of King Henry and against the rights of the Knights Templar.
In 1235, William de Marisco, implicated in the plot to murder Henry II, fled to the island where
he lived as a virtual king. He fortified the only real landing place on its coastline and defended it against all comers other
than pirates and outlaws who flocked there for his protection. He built Marisco Castle with nine-foot (2.74 m) thick walls
that safeguarded him and his 'subjects' for seventeen years. Eventually he and sixteen of his close followers were captured
and tried. Lundy was seized by the Royal forces and Marisco was hanged , drawn and quartered.
There followed a period of relative anarchy on the island with English and foreign
pirates and outlaws and privateers (including more members of the Marisco family) taking control of the island for short periods,
causing shipping traffic to avoid the Bristol Channel whenever possible.
Further evidence of the Templars' weak hold on the island comes ten years after
the death of Henry II in the year of the death of King Richard I, Henry's eldest son, who had succeeded him.
King John, Richard's youngest brother, began his reign in 1199, ignoring the claims
of his young nephew, Prince Arthur. In an effort to ensure the Templars' rights on Lundy, John confirmed the earlier grant
made by King Henry (II?) in the following form:
"Deed concerning King John and the island of Lundy - I John by the Grace of God &c you may
know we confer and present by our confirmation by these presents our confirmation in perpetuity to God and to the brothers
of the military service of the temple of Jerusalem, the island of Lundy … off the mouth of the river between Tinbeth
and Barnstaple in what way how and by which means we wish and confirm to the Master of the brothers of the Temple that same
island that they may have and hold completely and freely in continuous freedom and peace for free usage and with all liberties,
habits, customs, usage and ways as of the late King Henry. Witness Walter Rothman Given by our hand of in the presence of
Archbishop of Canterbury in year one of our reign."
At this time, John also recompensated the Templars for the past lack of income
from Lundy by granting them the revenues of the Marisco family in Somerset. It is uncertain whether the Templars used the
island at all, because in 1213 the English treasury paid the Order £10 in respect of the island. Whether this was recompense
for not being able to use it or a fee agreed for the Templars to nominally hold it in the name of the Order is unclear.
What is certain is that by the time of King Henry III, the son of King John (1216-1272) they
were given 100 shillings by the king in lieu of and in full recompense for the island. The Order's connection with Lundy seems
to have been severed at this time.
Thomas Bushell was a friend of Francis Bacon, and a strong supporter of the Royalist
cause during the Civil War and an expert on mining and coining. It has even been argued that during his stay on Lundy he produced
coinage for King Charles I, however definitive proof has not been found and it remains speculation. He held Lundy for King
Charles I and significantly this was the last part of the king's lands to capitulate to the victorious Parliamentary after
a siege lasting a year. Richard Fiennes, representing General Fairfax received the surrender. Bushell had rebuilt Marisco
Castle and garrisoned the island at his own expense (Boundy 1961).
In the early 17th century the island again became the haunt of pirates, and was
frequently attacked by the Spanish and French. Lord Say and Sele obtained Lundy in 1656. He is said to have retired there
during the Protectorate, and to be buried under the W. window of the old St. Helen's chapel.
The late 18th and early 19th centuries were years of lawlessness on Lundy, particularly
during the ownership of Benson, an MP who notoriously used the island for housing convicts who he was supposed to be deporting.
Piracy was rife during this period.
A lighthouse was erected in 1819 on the highest point of the island but experience showed that
the light was frequently obscured by fog at that height, and in 1897 the North Light and South Light, at either end of the
island, were substituted for it. The only landing place among the towering cliffs is at the SE. end, in the shelter of Rat
Island. Above the landing place are the few houses on the island, and the new St. Helen's church (1889) The old church, used
until about 1747, stood near the Old Lighthouse where some foundations are to be seen. Also at the SE. end of the island is
the square keep of Marisco Castle (probably 13th century) now converted into cottages. It was refortified during the Civil
Wars.
In 1834, Lundy was bought for 9,400 guineas by W. H. Heaven, who claimed it to
be a "free island" and successfully resisted the jurisdiction of the mainland magistrates. Lundy was in consequence sometimes
referred to as "the kingdom of Heaven." It belongs in fact to the county of Devon, and has always been part of the hundred
of Braunton. Many of the buildings on the island today, including St. Helena's Church and Millcombe House (originally known
simply as The Villa) date from the Heaven period.
The Villa, a well-proportioned house in the Georgian style, was built in the late
1830s. However, the expense of building the road from the beach (no financial assistance being provided by Trinity House,
despite their regular use of the road following its construction), the Villa, and the general cost of running the island had
a ruinous effect on the family's finances. Coupled with the collapse in the sugar market (much of William Heaven's income
came from his sugar plantations in Jamaica), the family was obliged the make the island its principal home from the early
1840s.
William Heaven retained some property on the mainland in order to continue to
qualify to vote. Known as 'The Squire' he defended Lundy's extra-terratorial privileges vigorously, and this defence included
the insistence that his qualification to vote did not rest on his ownership of the Lundy property, but of mainland property.
Not surprisingly the island became known as the 'Kingdom of Heaven'.
William Heaven was succeeded by his son the Rev'd Hudson Grosset Heaven who, thanks
to a legacy from Sarah Langworthy (n ée Heaven) was able
to fulfil his life's ambition of building a stone church on the island - St Helena's was completed in 1896, and stands today
as a lasting memorial to the Heaven period. He is said to have able to afford a church or a new harbour. His choice of the
church was not however in the best financial interests of the island. It came at a heavy price. Rather than using the money
to re-establish the family's finances on a sound footing, and coupled with some disastrous investments and speculations in
the early 20th century, the financial situation deteriorated seriously. Hudson Heaven died in 1916, and was succeeded by his
nephew, Walter Charles Hudson Heaven. With the outbreak of the Great War, matters deteriorated seriously and, in 1918, the
family was forced to sell the island, receiving less for it than the accumulated debts and mortgages. Bankruptcy ensued, and
Walter emigrated to Australia, a broken man.
His sister, Marion Cecilia Harley Heaven married her cousin Dr John Cookesley
Heaven. She and her daughter Eileen Heaven retained a close interest in the Island throughout their lives, Eileen dying in
1983.
Her cousin, Richard John Gyde Heaven, and his children and grandchildren have
also continued to be regular visitors to the Island.
The Christie family owned the island for just a few years before selling it in
1924 to Martin Coles Harman. The main residence was modeled on that of a Burmese Tea Plantation dwelling, with a partly convex
roof to catch the rain as the water courses on the island are prone to contamination due to the stock grazing on the island.
Martin Coles Harmon bought the island of Lundy, the mail contract, as well as
the MV Lerina, in October of 1924after which he proclaimed himself a "king. Harman also issued two coins of Half Puffin and
One Puffin value in 1929, nominally equivalent to the British Halfpenny & Penny. It was this coinage that landed him in
trouble. The House of Lords in 1931, found him in violation of the United Kingdom’s 1870 Coinage Act. He was fined five
pounds and fifteen guineas expenses. The "coins" were withdrawn and became collectors' items. In 1965 a 'fantasy' restrike
four coin set, a few in gold, was issued to commemorate 40 years since Harman purchased the island. He died in 1954. During
the Harmon period, residents did not pay taxes to the United Kingdom and had to pass through customs when they travelled to
and from Lundy Island. Although the island was ruled as a virtual fiefdom, Mr. Harmon never claimed the island was independent
of the United Kingdom.
Following the death of Mr. Harmon's son in 1968, Lundy was sold in 1969to the
National Trust and leased to the Landmark Trust, which maintains properties on the island that are rented to tourists. The
income is used to maintain the properties and the island.
Lundy has long been notable for its multitude of rabbits and its colonies of puffins.
It is also of particular interest to geologists and botanists. The cliff scenery is spectacularly wild. On the Shutter Rock,
at the SW. point of the island, Charles Kingsley caused Don Guzman's great ship to be wrecked in Westward Ho! and in 1906
H.M.S. Montagu was in fact wrecked here. Rat Island is one of the few remaining homes of the aboriginal black rat, now almost
exterminated by the brown rat. The granite of Lundy was used for the Thames Embankment, and was long used for parish churches
on the Devon mainland.
Except in winter, there is a regular ferry service, from Bidegord or Ifracombe depending on
the tides, using the island's own ship, the MS Oldenburg. There is also a helicopter service.
Tourism and the sale of postage stamps are the main parts of Lundy's economy. The Marisco Tavern,
which used to brew its own beer, is in Lundy village. Lundy is also used as a site for scientific research, and the south
end of the island is operated as a farm. There are two working lighthouses on the island (and one historic disused one).
An interesting legend, holds that the island was once home to the fabled Holy Grail. As the
story goes, the Knights Templar hid it there for a time in their castle. That is why Lundy Island is soimetimes referred to
as the Grail Island.n a 2005 opinion poll of readers of Radio Times, Lundy was named as the 10th greatest natural wonder in
Britain. It has increasingly become a popular tourist destination. Day-tripping is most popular, although tourists can spend
several nights on the island in holiday cottages, almost all at the south end of the island.
The Royal family even visited the island in the 1970s.
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